
One weird thing I’ve noticed travelling around Europe is that it seemed like the places with the most bikes seem to have the fewest bike shops: Amsterdam had the odd one or two; France, none; Italy, none; Budapest, none (at least none that I could see in my daily rambles through these cities). Not so Berlin. Berlin is the home of the hole-in-the-wall bike shop. It’s usually one guy with a bunch of raggedy commuter bikes, a pair of vice-grips and a tape measure. OK, that might be a little uncharitable, but that was the case at at least one shop I went to. And don’t get me wrong, I actually prefer that sort of shop to the plastic, straight out of the catalogue shops that pass for high-end retail outlets. It may seem strange, but it’s also true, that I’ve spent most of my time in Europe looking down dark alleyways for shops that have achieved the same blend of true-school awesomeness of a T Whites Bikes or Fort Lane era Adventure Cycles. Germany has a pretty good one — Keirin Berlin.

The pic below is of a Textima frame built for some German Olympic rider. Before the re-unification of Germany, these were built in secrecy in the basement of a textile factory (hence the name). They were all fillet-brazed for ease of customisation, which was expressive — no two frames I’ve seen are the same.

Textima also customised their own parts. These cranks started out as Campy pistas, but have been extensively machined to save weight.

According to shop owner Gary, this is one of the first monocoque carbon bikes ever made!

Cinelli tandem!

A bunch of keirin frames.

Also, unprompted by me, Gabrielle bought this:

Here’s a pic of the catacombs in Paris. More than 2km of stacked bones under the city! Nuts!
